(Prices, PICTURES, REF & links on next page)

ITEMS LIST

* All measurements use metric system and are in Millimeters (mm)

(Prices, PICTURES, REF & links on next page)

3 x Linear shaft ⊘ 8mm x 400 mm (Y axe)
2 x Linear shaft ⊘ 6mm x 300 mm (one is for z stabilizer gantry, to save money you can re-used the old one 280mm for it, even if it’s a bit short, consider it will just reduce a bit z gain. And still need one 300mm for x axe upper shaft)
1 x Linear shaft ⊘ 6mm x 360 mm (x axe downside shaft is longer) (a 350mm might also suit or take 400 and cut it with grinder)
240 mm M4 (0,7 mm pitch) threaded rod (z axe), stainless (preferably, as genuine). If your printer is second-hand, then make sure your rod is a M4 (some change it for a TR8x8 leadscrew and Nema 17 motor)
1 x linear bearing LM8LUU for Y third shaft (45 mm, pay attention not to take the short LM8UU 24 mm)
2 x linear bearings LM6UU (shorts), for z stabilizer shaft
1 x Block bearing SCS8UU for Y third shaft (bearing inside will not be used)
Reprap Aluminium PCB Heatbed MK2A 300x200x3.0mm 12V 200W (with cable and thermistance 100K ohm)
300 x 200 mm buildtak self-adhesive
MOSFET Makerbase MKS+ (max 280A, yes it's very strong)
Power Supply Unit 12V 30A
2 meters Belt GT2 6mm
19 x Brass spacers sleeves M3 35 mm
15 x Brass spacers sleeves M3 10 mm
Micro SD extension (i took a 290 mm)
Electric sleeve protection (OPTIONAL) (it’s for heatbed and hotend wires)
SM JST wires sockets (for Hotend) (OPTIONAL)
3 x GT2 16 teeth bore x y idler pulleys (OPTIONAL) (originals works well, the’re just plastic). They are idler pulleys, i’ve not changed x y motor drive pulleys still plastic)
40 mm Fan (4010 for Hotend)(OPTIONAL)
60 mm Fan, for basement fan replacement (genuine to noisy for my delicate ears)
OPTIONAL: Smaller 1,9 mm PTFE Tube

(About bearings, sometimes one is defective, so consider possibility to take one more)

- Some high-temp silicon (non-conducting) paste, for heatbed thermistance

IMPORTANT NOTICE

1) As describe at "List of Improvements" page i didn’t planned to put a third bearing block and linear shaft track on bed carriage, again note that printer could also work without this third Y linear shaft (i tried), all "Mods" i've seen everywhere works like that, printing will be just less accurate on the half right side of heatbed because of vibrations due to loose. Same observation for gantry that's not a mandatory. But in my view it would be a pity to loose genuine quality of this printer so i recommand you to do it, even if it's difficult to implement, but it's your call.

IN THE MEANTIME I BRANDED THESE ITEMS AS "REQUIRED"

2) So i didn't planned third shaft for Y, but i planned to put additionnal bearings in the alignment of genuines to reduce loose (yes loose is my obsession), and i did it (on picture you'll see two yellow printed brackets for bearings LM8UU). Due to the fact i have finally mounted third y shaft, i assume now that these additional bearings are not essential (however i didn't try without it), i think third shaft track is probably enough to ensure a good fit, moreover there are very very difficult to adjust and align, that's why i advise you not to add it, but again it's your call, it's up to you to choose.

IN THE MEANTIME I BRAND THESE ITEMS AS "OPTIONAL" on "Items Prices & Links" page.

2 x Bearings LM8UU (OPTIONAL)

ALUMINIUM ANGLES

I’ve got it in a discount hardware store for 9 €, you’ll have to find it (picture further).

1 x angle Stair nose 45 x 22 x 2 mm(thick) (1 m, need 70 cm, for X axe and gantry), Stair nose is better than simple angle for X axe and gantry because it's stronger.
1 x angle 20 x 20 x 1,5 mm(thick) (1 m, need 81 cm for Bed carriage left and right sides)
1 x angle 30 x 20 x 1,5 mm(thick) (1 m, need 45 cm for Bed carriage front and rear sides). Again, due to the fact i didn’t plan to put a third bearing, I chosed a stronger angle for this part (for a less loose), i think stronger is no longer useful and 20 x 20 could be suficient but i'm not sure about that, it's your call, it's up to you to choose.
1 x flat aluminium 20 x 2mm(thick) (need only 30 cm, 6pcs 47 mm for the six wheels attachments)

Some use rivets to fix angles but I am not convinced that it's strength enough over long term, so i used M3 and M4 screws with hexagonal heads.

If you don’t have a large set of M3 M4 Screws and nuts, there’s links further
I assume also that every one that have a 3d printer have also a set of Brass hot Insert nuts for 3D prints, links further
You’ll also need something to isolate heatbed underside, i made it myself with a piece of thermal insulation and kitchen alu paper, i fixed it under bed with a bit of double side tape and thermal tape. in case you don’t want DIY, link further.
Idem for mini and medium, wires to expand rotary knob, extruder motor, and hotend cables, (see "Items prices & links" for details and advises to find it freely)
Last thing, some meters (4-5 m) electric cables 0.75 mm2 to 1mm2 for power supply input and outputs. (see "Items prices & links" for details)

FLAT STEEL (Pictures on "Items Prices & Links" page).

2 x Flat 96 x 38 x 2 mm (thickness). accepted Lengths: 96 to 100 (10 cm). Width 38 is the min (because of bearing bracket width) but more is ok.
2 x Flat corners (see "Items Prices & Links" page). To extend printer backside basement, it's really better to have more stability, but it's OPTIONAL)

SCREWS

Screws Preferably Hexagonal round or cap head screws:

- 20 x M3 10 or 12 mm length

- 6 x M3 20 to 25 mm

- 2 x M3 25 mm (belt tensionners)

- 4 x M3 32 mm (for extruder motor only if you move it outside)

- 12 x M4 10 to 16 mm

- 2 x M4 16 mm

- 6 x M4 20 mm

- 4 x M4 5 mm (or cut a longer)

- (of course same nb of nuts)

Screws preferably Hehagonal Flat head screws: